From Tokyo to Fuji and beyond! A Real Shogun Tour Diary

This rider diary was compiled by Dov during a self-guided Shogun Motorbike Adventures tour in October 2025. Published with permission. Our thanks to Dov for allowing us to share his story!

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Day One: When you finally hit the road (almost on time!) - From Tokyo to Mount Fuji

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So like that, we planned to leave at 11:00 from Rental819 in Odaiba. The plan was perfect – show up, take the bikes and hit the road like champions. The reality? We spent 45 minutes figuring out how to pack all the fashion clothes we bought from Uniqlo (yes, really need 3 pairs of shoes for a motorcycle trip?).

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But as soon as we left – wow! The first stage took us through the E20 highway, cleverly avoiding roads that ban pillions on motorbikes (yes, there are roads like that in Japan!). We quickly learned to use the purple and not the green ETC lanes – one mistake and you stand in line with all the angry Japanese that pay with cash. And we lost two riders on the way, they were found at the first stop. Lunch at Ishikawa PA was our opportunity to regroup and realise we’re really doing this! We didn’t eat, no time – we went out late and stayed hungry. And then came Mount Fuji – the moment we were waiting for!

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We got on the Fuji Subaru Line (note: cash only), up to the Fifth Station. This mountain is just incredible – it’s standing there like a silent and snowy giant, overlooking all of Japan. The pictures don’t do him justice! The descent into Lake Yamanaka was magical, with Mount Fuji reflecting in the water like in a postcard (not really – due to going out “on time” we arrived in the dark!). Tomorrow we will continue – if we manage to pack in time!

Day Two in Hakone: When the clutch stays on the mountain

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We started the morning at a Japanese gas station, where we learned that filling gas in Japan is similar to solving a Rubik’s cube – you don’t really know how you did it, but somehow it works. The mountain course was awesome! On the left, Lake Ashi. On the right, the majestic Mount Fuji. And in the middle, us on motorbikes feeling like modern-day samurai. Only the 8th Century samurai probably didn’t stop at the Bikers Paradise Café.

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Hakone Shrine with the red torii gate in the lake? Simply magical. But the real peak came at Owakudani – the volcanic valley with the sulphur gases and the famous black eggs. Local legend has it that each black egg eaten extends your life by 7 years. Nobody said how many years you get if the clutch on your bike died in the same ride. Yes, that’s right – one of the motorbikes decided that the turbulent ascents to the sulphur mountain was the perfect moment to retire. The clutch just said “sayonara” and stayed there, somewhere between the sulphur vapor vents! That didn’t stop us though. Surfing down the mountain without a clutch? Luckily, the hotel was waiting for us at the bottom of the mountain. And, Shogun organised a spare motorbike with samurai-like agility, and tomorrow we continue as if nothing happened.

Day Three: From Hakone to Izu, when the road is the destination

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We woke up this morning at the Prince hotel in Sengokuhara – a hotel that simply stole our hearts. The room’s balcony offering a stunning view, and the breakfast…if we continue like this we will come back home with a few extra pounds from the perfect Japanese kitchen!

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After a quick refuel in northern Hakone, we went for a long, flowing drive along the coast of the Izu Peninsula. Mount Fuji accompanied us to the right, soaring over Suruga Bay like a royal bodyguard. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in Heda fishing village – a meal full of all sorts of delicacies, with precise and meticulous dishes like only a Japanese chef who studied 10 years at the Sushi Academy before receiving permission from the Emperor to feed the villagers. The afternoon brought a breathtaking coastal drive, then an inward turn into narrow winding country roads between terraced rice fields and enchanted villages. Is it a bit challenging? Absolutely! But our motorbikes handled it with dignity.

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A visit to Kawazu Seven Waterfalls! Seven amazing waterfalls along an enchanting forest trail, each more beautiful than the other. A moment of absolute peace. We finished the day in Shuzenji, tired but happy, with a smile that never leaves the face.

Day Four: Izu Kyline, or how to sell your soul for curves

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Today we conquered the famous Izu Skyline. What have they told us? “Special road for motorcycles”, “floating curves”, “panoramic view of Mount Fuji”. What did we receive? Fog with the density of hummus, a consistent drizzle that turned is into human sponges, and Mount Fuji playing hide-and-seek with us like a 5-year old boy! The panoramic view? We saw him for about 5 seconds when the clouds decided to take a cigarette break. But don’t worry, the road itself was so amazing that we couldn’t be disappointed by the view (or lack-of). It’s a little hard to see the view when you’re focussed on not dying at the 73rd curve. We passed (again!) Bikers Paradise Café – a name that promises a lot, and keeps that promise. We connected to Ashinoko and Hakone Skylines like some winding road ninja, and paid the toll in cash because in Japan in 2025 we still believe in the power of hard currency.

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We arrived at Gotemba for lunch and ordered (maybe) the best ramen in town. It was either really good, or we were just hungry. I believe in both! But the craziest part? We arrived at a traditional hotel that questioned everything we thought we knew about food. Dinner with endless dishes of flavours we didn’t know existed. We tried to count how many portions arrived – we lost count after 15. Every taste was like an umami concert in your mouth. And the dessert? Onsen. Because after a day of fog, rain, dangerous curves and 237 dishes for dinner, what you really need is to soak yourself in hot water and think about your life choices. They always say “the way is the destination”. Today the road was foggy, the destination was food, and the conclusion is that I have to go back – only so that Mount Fuji can come out of the closet.

Day Five: Matsumoto camouflage

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Thursday in the mountains of Japan – a day that combined ancient history, breathtaking landscapes and authentic culture. The day started with an exciting ride through the curves of Yamanashi and to an ancient Shinto shrine – Suwa Taisha, one of the most special and spiritual places in Japan since the 8th Century. The second part? It’s a bit rainy unfortunately. Hiking through the mountains to the Kiso Valley and the historic town of Narai – “Narai of a Thousand Houses”. This protected town was a central station on the Nakasendo Trail that connected Kyoto and Tokyo during the Edo period. Here we enjoyed an authentic soba noodle meal. The last stop? Nagawado Dam. We hoped for spectacular views in the wilderness. But, we just passed by due to the continuous rain that didn’t stop for a moment.

Day Six: Matsumoto Castle and the Japanese alps

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The sun was shining at Matsumoto Castle! Originally built at the end of the 16th Century during the Sengoku period, and it’s known as a “Hirajiro” (a Plain Castle) because it was built on a plain and not on a hilltop. Its impressive black exterior has earned it the nickname “Crow Castle” and it is declared a national treasure of Japan. Inside we discovered displays of historical objects, samurai armor and traditional weapons. The castle has six stories and the climb to the top requires a climb of 140 steep wooden stairs. We climbed carefully (no shoes allowed, socks only) and the view from the summit was absolutely worth the effort. A spectacular panorama of the city of Matsumoto and the surrounding Japanese alps.

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Climbing the mountains through scenic roads, we left Matsumoto along a beautiful route that traversed epic valleys. We made a sharp turn onto a narrow local road, on a steadily rising scenic route offering picturesque views. The road lead to Utsukushigahara, located at an altitude of 2000 metres above sea level. At the summit we were greeted with panoramic views of the Japanese Alps and the surrounding landscapes. It was finally a sunny and clear day, and the Utsukushigahara Open-Air Museum showcased over 350 modern sculptures against the backdrop of nature – a unique blend of art and spectacular scenery.

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Next: the famous Venus Line. We continued south along this famous track known for its curves and spectacular mountain views. The ride passed the Yashimagahara Wetlands, a peaceful home to seasonal flowers and migratory birds, and a nice place to stop and contemplate the landscape. We continued along the Venus Line and passed Lake Shirakaba, a picturesque alpine lake framed in forests and often reflecting the surrounding mountains in its still waters. The route then descended towards Tateshina, offering a mix of open landscapes and sections of forest. An unforgettable day that combined history, culture, local cuisine and spectacular mountain landscapes – an authentic Japanese experience on two wheels!

Day Seven: Final day, riding in the Japanese paradise

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Today we experienced what really defines Japan as a motorcyclist’s paradise. Endless winding roads, breathtaking landscapes and stunningly colourful forests with leaves that are starting to drop – it was just perfect. This morning we opened on Marchen Road, one of the most beautiful and picturesque roads in Japan. The road went up and past the Tateshina levels from yesterday, and the views that unfolded in front of us were really breathtaking. In mid-October it was cold, between 10-14 degrees, hand and seat heaters working overtime! We stopped on the side of the road for a coffee and a short leg stretch, a perfect moment to soak in the views and warm up a bit.

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The next leg was magical – we descended deep into a forgotten valley, with roads winding endlessly through a landscape that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the samurai era. We stopped a few times just to soak in the sounds and smells of the forest – an experience that can’t be described in words.

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Upon leaving out the other side of the valley, we found ourselves in Gunma Prefecture winding through forgotten villages along the banks of a river. Every turn revealed a new view, every kilometre was an experience in itself. Eventually, we arrived at Shimonita and the rest area where we ended this amazing morning. The last day proved again why Japan is a dream destination for motorcyclists. The combination of perfect paths, breathtaking landscapes and the amazing colours of the onset of fall created an unforgettable experience.

It’s impossible to talk about Japan without mentioning the special dining experience. The Japanese took professionalism and precision to new levels. Dinner? 18 perfect miniature dishes, each served in its own special way, arranged with millimetre precision like a military operation. Breakfast? 16 more tiny plates of mysterious things that look amazing and designed with typical Japanese care. This is also the magic – every meal is a ritual, a culinary art. It’s part of the Japanese experience – this perfectionism permeates every aspect, from the perfect roads we rode to the single grain of rice arranged just right on the plate.

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Everything is perfect, everything is accurate, everything is beautiful.

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Inspired? Plan your self-guided ride with Shogun.

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